紫蓮の翼

Karl在他新一季的高級定制時裝中，將復古與未來拉扯到一起，模特全部都是清一色的BOB頭，煙熏妝，有點女魔頭的架勢，也許正是Anna Wintour給了他靈感，就像上一季的雞窩頭造型，就是源自英國女歌手Amy Winehouse。

　　Karl將Chanel品牌最聞名的花呢面料與皮草、流蘇等面料結合，增強了華麗的感覺，硬質感面料被成功塑造出各種建築式的造型，加上幾何圖形和細緻的皺褶，在符合人體結構的同時展現出強烈的科技感。服裝肩部與腰部的誇張設計體現了設計師前衛的設計理念，這與Givenchy的設計師似乎有些不謀而合，也正好向潮人們發出訊息，08的秋冬你要強化你的肩部和腰部。

　　在這場秀上我們還看到許多新穎的面料，包括風琴褶外形的面料、麵條型的繩索以及珠光寶氣的鑲亮片面料，現在各個國際大牌都在努力研發高級的面料，這對於打擊翻版當然有所幫助，但誰知到呢~盜版帶來的豐厚利益還是會促使翻版者實現技術的提升。

　　PARIS, July 1, 2008 – When showing in the Grand Palais－a soaring dome of a space capable of dwarfing an enormous audience and miniaturizing any runway－Karl Lagerfeld needs to exaggerate to make his theme carry. Thus, a 50-foot set is craned in to announce the season's keynote: in this case, a vast multilevel stack of steel-gray tubes, suggesting organ pipes.

　　What proceeded, inevitably enough, was a virtuoso fugue in tubular cutting, played up, down, and across every possible scale in Chanel's suiting, embroideries, chiffon, and eveningwear. From the beginning, the clothes took on curvilinear volumes, starting with gray-flecked, cocoonlike car coats over short skirts and trompe l'oeil tweed "suits" with belled skirts, which on closer inspection were actually one-piece coat-dresses. Lagerfeld's irrepressible facility for quick-fire free association in design ideas led to dozens of three-dimensional devices thereafter: huge bunchy cap sleeves, cartridge rolls of material encircling waists or hobbling hemlines, deep scrolls of fabric standing out from skirts, and spaghettilike fringing flying from shoulders.

　　The general impression was of a collection that had changed key from last season's girlishness to something tuned more to a winter-weight, grown-up frequency. Still, the delight was all in the more light-fingered treatments: delicate fronds of ostrich fringe on a micro-beaded suit, or silvery zigzag embroidery on an intensely sequined belted dress. Couture at this supreme level only gets more incredible the closer you get to it. The frustration is that, paraded at such a distance, the astonishing skill involved in creating these effects is incapable of being picked up by the naked eye. There is, of course, a sense of occasion and anticipation in being invited to sit in the Chanel grandstand, but the genius of Karl Lagerfeld and the unique ateliers of the Rue Cambon might be far better appreciated in close-up.

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

　　

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紫蓮の翼

紫蓮の翼